DRESDEN 
Sightseeing

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Dresden,  the capital city of Saxony, is fast reassuming its position as one of Europe's most beautiful cities. It has always been a leader in culture and architecture, hence the name "Elbflorenz" (Florence at the Elbe river). All this came to a fiery end in February, 1945, when British bombers caused a firestorm that killed 25,000 citizens, mostly women and children, and destroyed almost all of Dresden's historical and architectural monuments.

One of the most remarkable monuments in the city is the so-called "Fürstenzug" (procession of the dukes). It is situated in the Langer Gang (Long walk), a long building erected in 1586-1591, which connects the Residential Castle with the Johanneum Museum. The elegant façade facing the courtyard is decorated with sgraffito and has shady arcades supported by slim columns. It provided an excellent backdrop for tournaments and parades. The wall facing the street features the so-called Fürstenzug , a vast 102m long frieze depicting the procession of many Saxon rulers. Originally created by Wilhelm Walther in 1872-1876, using the sgraffito technique, it was replaced in 1907 by 24.000 Meissen porcelain tiles.

Much has been rebuilt. An outstanding example is the "Semperoper", the State Opera of Saxony.The opera is one of Saxony's landmarks. It was named after its creator, the the famous architect Gottfried Semper who designed it twice : the first building, erected in 1338-1841burned down in 1869, the second one was completed in 1878. It reopened for performances in 1985 and has regained its reputation as the opera house in which The Rosenkavelier was premiered.

Dresden wouldn't be Dresden without the "Zwinger", a beautiful Baroque structure. The name means "intermural". It was built in the space between the former town fortifications. Commissioned by August the Strong, it was constructed in 1709-1739 according to a design by Matthäus Poppelmann. The spacious courtyard, once used to stage tournaments, festivals and firework displays, is completely surrounded by galleries into which are set pavilions and gates. Today it houses several museums.

The "Hofkirche" is a monumental Baroque royal church, built between 1738-1751. The large tower is visible from afar. It was the Catholic Cathedral of the Dresden-Meissen Diocese since 1780. The church was commissioned by August the Strong and designed by the Italian architect Gaetano Chiaveri. Rebuilt after the Second World War, it features a magnificent Rococo pulpit by Balthasar Permoser.

The "Residenzschloss" (Residential Castle) was the former residence of the Wettin family. It was built in stages from the late 15th to the 17th centuries. The most recent extensions were added in 1889 and 1901. A vast, irregular, multi-wing complex of buildings, the castle is not yet fully restored. The wings which have been completed are now used for temporary exhibitions. The Hausmannsturm, a tall tower, affords a great view of Dresden.Residenzschloss" (Residential Castle) was the former residence of the Wettin family. It was built in stages from the late 15th to the 17th centuries. The most recent extensions were added in 1889 and 1901. A vast, irregular, multi-wing complex of buildings, the castle is not yet fully restored. The wings which have been completed are now used for temporary exhibitions. The Hausmannsturm, a tall tower, affords a great view of Dresden.

The "psychological" reconstruction of the city will only be complete as soon as  the "Frauenkirche" (Our Lady's Church) is restored from the heap of rubble left by a direct hit and subsequent fire. This symbol of war's destructiveness sat untouched for 50 years until, after the Communist regime lost power, the decision was made to restore it. The Frauenkirche had been for more than 200 years the seat of Saxon protestantism and a visible symbol, with its huge bell-shaped tower reaching 95 meters above the Dresden plains. The job was immediately undertaken with enormous energy and enthusiasm, monetary support coming from foundations, businesses and individuals. An army of expert architectural archeologists mined the rubble for stone blocks and carvings that could be reused. Almost 30% of the completed structure will be composed of these original materials. This will result in a checkered pattern of blackened salvaged stone and new yellow sandstone, quaried from the Saxon Schweiz, as were the original. The finished edifice will be in every aspect a replica of the original. Only facilites, infrastructure and hidden structural support beams will be modern.

Meanwhile, in the city around the Frauenkirche project, a commercial area is growing with its center at the restored Alt Markt. This has brought color and life to a city that has for all too long missed what it once was know for. One sees sights one would not, thirty years ago when we first visited Dresden, have dreamed one would ever see on the banks of the Elbe. The department store chain, Karstadt, has built what is probably the most elegant store in the world, with terraced gardens and an interior that rivals the Semperoper. The fact that its "backyard" is still a vacant lot and unpaved parking area just means that there is still much work to be done restoring the parks, promenades and pedestrian shopping zones.